#Baselworld2015

An honor to be invited to the AHCI 30th Anniversary dinner in Basel.

I received a kind invitation to attend the AHCI 30th Anniversary dinner in Basel from Marc Jenni a couple of months prior to Basel. I happily responded in the positive, knowing that this was an event not to be missed. Given my support for the AHCI watchmakers and their chosen path, I eagerly anticipated this evening.

Arriving at the old restaurant right off the Marktplatz in the center of old town, I walked into a huge private dining room upstairs with four rows of tables feeding well over 100 people. Many familiar faces of the more dedicated watch press were in attendance together with the members of the AHCI. I think I was one of the very few retailers to attend. This tiny narrow field is definitely not for most people involved in the selling part of the watch business, as it takes real passion and an understanding with a true appreciation of what it takes to be an Independent Watchmaker. As a pioneer in this field in the USA, it was a great acknowledgement to be invited.

During the feast, a picture presentation of the members ran on a big screen, as a few members couldn't be present, it was a fun way to include them in the festivities. Seeing John McGonigle on the screen amused me very much, as he and his brother rank up there as some of my best friends in the business. Two of the most humble and brilliant watchmakers. 

Towards the end of the meal, several members made brief speeches. Svend Andersen, one of the co-founders spoke first, then his cohort Vincent Calabrese said a few words. Following up, was the poster boy for the AHCI and what it can do to help a young watchmaker starting out, Peter Speake-Marin. Peter was encouraged by the great Philippe Dufour to join back in 2001, when he was introduced by his friend Kees Englebarts. He subsequently was sponsored by Antoine Presuzio and Philippe Dufour, exhibiting with the AHCI in 2002 for the first time. My journey into the Independent Watchmaking world really started with Peter in 2003, I've written extensively about it previously...

http://www.independentintime.com/time-with-tim/2013/3/30/musings-on-independent-watchmaking-and-the-beginning-journey.html

These are some of the pieces I've had the pleasure of handling over the years.

I contacted him in October 2003 via email, and then in December had a 30minute telephone call with Daniela his business partner at the time. Culminating in an agreement to meet the following year in Basel 2004. That was the beginning of an eye opening path for me horologically!

Peter Speake-Marin talks after dinner.

The last haggard runners, waiting to speak with my friend Vianney Halter. Ludovico on the right in deep discussion.

So, to have Peter stand up and talk about how much the AHCI has meant to him and what it offers the new Independent Watchmaker was quite rousing and brought many emotions up for me. Journeying oftentimes in quite a personal way with many of these watchmakers is quite extra-ordinary, humbling and an honor. I feel very blessed to experience the journey on a first hand basis, and am now hoping my good friend and brilliant young American watchmaker from Oregon, Keaton Myrick, follows Peter and his colleagues footsteps and gains entry into this brilliant group. I'm pretty confident he'd have at least two sponsors!!!

This was a treat to see again, Peter Roberts, one of the watchmakers who taught P. Speake-Marin at Hackney technical college many moons ago, designed this beauty and finally has made a small series for collectors.

I took the last day in Basel, Sunday, fairly easily, without too many fixed appointments. Arriving into the fair around 2pm, having spent the morning walking in the hills outside Basel with my family hosts, I made the rounds with my friends and completed the necessary arrangements for my future business. I departed for London early Monday morning, for my flight across the "pond" to the West Coast.

Day 2: Basel's first day, Lang & Heyne, Grönefeld & Sarpaneva

I then headed over to the AHCI area to meet up with my good friend and one half of the brilliant Irish watchmaking brothers, Stephen McGonigle. Sad to say John wasn't in attendance this Basel fair, but I was very happy to see Stephen. Deciding to grab a quick beer outside and enjoy the brief spot of sunshine, I enjoyed a fun 1/2 hour discussing watches, business and family. We agreed to meet up later after the fair prior to heading to our respective homes.

Spring was in the air finally in Switzerland, albeit quite chilly at night.

I then headed in to see Marco Lang and his team adjacent to the AHCI stand in Hall 2.0. Marco is one of those lovely guys you can't help but like. Humble and brilliant, he has continued to create gorgeous watches in Dresden in tiny numbers, preferring to focus on his own calibers and traditional high quality manual wind movements. From simple Time Only classics to superb Constant Force models and my personal favourite, the Albert Chronograph. All his watches are cased within his own manufactured cases, which I believe is a pretty rare occurrence in today's Independent Watchmaking world. I had heard about a new dial option for one of his models, the Friedrich III, which previously only was found with a black matt dial and white romans. The promise of a massive silver frosted dial for the 18K RG version had me eager to see the final result. The watch he showed me, was quite lovely and very classically styled. My only improvement was to change the hands from RG cathedral to blued steel cathedral hands.

A glorious 40mm Friedrich III in 18K RG.

This is for myself and I think many others, a perfect dress watch size. Manually wound with the Lang & Heyne Caliber VI, it doesn't get much better in my opinion. I ordered it!

A little different light.

Here it is on the wrist!

As Marco and his team of craftsmen explore a few new avenues in the artistry of watchmaking and being in the center of the Saxony, with it's long history of being an art and science mecca in central Europe, it is of no surprise that they occasionally get creative. Champlevé enamelling has been used for dials in watchmaking, as well as the more common Cloisonné, by master artisans for many of the big brands. One of Marco's colleagues created this striking dial for a RG Johann in blue enamel.

Marco told me they are capable of creating red and green too. Not sure I like the shade of blue in the strap on this one, but fabulous craftsmanship either way. I suspect there will be takers for this concept, although it might be a bit too "out there" for most of my clients. Great to know they can do this in their workshop.

I also discussed a trip to Southern California in the fall in order to create an event for watch lovers to have the opportunity to meet Marco and see and hear directly from him as to why he does this. I am excited to have him visit again, and we will have a fun and educational time when he comes. Details will be forthcoming as we flesh out the exact dates etc. I am very happy for Marco and his team and am glad to represent his superb work in the USA. 

A pair of Moritz’ in rose gold. Spot the difference!

A short walk across the aisle to see the other brotherly Independent Watchmaking team from Holland. Bart & Tim Grönefeld. Sharing a stand with Stepan Sarpaneva, Kari Voutilainen and Alberto (The Loupe System) much laughter and excitement can be heard even outside the booth. These friendships and relationships furthered during the Basel fair are crucial to a better understanding and appreciation for what these master Watchmakers are doing, and for continuing to work with them. Seeing their latest creations is fun too, and after all why I make the long trek to Basel from the West Coast of the USA. Tim & Bart were fresh off of a win at the prestigious Grand Prix de Haute Horology in Geneva, for their Parallax Tourbillon. They were in great spirits and happy to show the latest models.

Their new execution cased in platinum with RG frosted dial elements.

Tim & Bart Grönefeld.

The 18K RG One Hertz with the new frosted dial from last year. Quite an elegant version.

The stunning One Hertz caliber from a Titanium earlier piece, with their steel bridges.

I snapped some fun pics with the great guys:

Tim Grönefeld, Bart Grönefeld and myself. Being serious with them for once, not to be outdone, we traded looks...

I then then moved to another desk, where the younger of the two brilliant Finnish Independent Watchmakers parks himself during the Basel fair. Stepan Sarpaneva makes somewhere around 40 watches a year and they are not for everyone. His style resonates with a portion of watch admirers and collectors and not at all with others. He is totally OK with this. Prior to this years Basel, he released images of his latest watch, the Korona Northern Lights, on various social media sites. Not a lot of technical details, but enough imagery to certainly capture my imagination. He collaborated on this dial with a Canadian artist, who emigrated to Sweden in order to study art and design. His company, Black Badger operates in the Badger Den in Sweden creating amongst other things, jewelry using superbly luminous aggregates. Stepan contacted James, and they co-created a dial for the watches, which are another extension of the Northern Stars model in effect. Sporting Stepan's tremendous moonphase semi-skeleton dial, the three options of color once charged, glow amazingly in the dark. Blue, green and purple are going to be made in 8 pieces of each color. They are all sold as of this writing, I'm happy to say I have one coming for stock, again spoken for, but I'm on the wait list in case someone decides or is unable to acquire one...not terribly optimistic, but hopeful nonetheless.

In standard lighting, the blued DLC skeletonised dial sits atop the Black Badger material.

Moving my wrist under the desk, reveals the blue glow!

The green version in full light...the green ADLC grid is a strong color. Of all three, this makes the most impression...

Here it is upon Stepan's wrist, not dark yet!

Again full light on my wrist...

Tricky to capture this one. The Purple version with its black ADLC case needs UV light to glow...James from BlackBadger came equipped with the requisite black light to charge it.

Outside the booth, in the darker corridor, I was able to better experience this piece.

Now with it's sibling, the blue Northern Lights:

Sibling rivalry!

Another direction Stepan took last year, was to use a fired enamel dial on a model or two. This piece I think works quite well in 18k RG, the Korona Moon Emaili (at least I think that is it's correct moniker) an elegant and yet at the same time whimsical with Stepan's Moonphase. Of course the RG Moon is replicated on the rotor weight. 

A sporty red alligator strap, perhaps a bit dandy for me, certainly you'd receive some comments!

Seeing this in motion is fun every time I see one!

And last but not least a prototype Stepan has been working on for several months. I saw it in the previous execution prior to being "Black Badgered" in London during the Salon QP show in Nov. This work in progress is quite stunning piece and once finished, I'm sure will be incredible. The first Sarpaneva Tourbillon to my knowledge. Cased in steel and sporting a couple of Black Badger Blue elements on and around the dial. I love it!

Again here in full light.

Here held under the desk, so please forgive the slightly blurry photo!

More to come, stay tuned...